How to Install Your Own Lawn

Apply a starter fertiliser to your soil

Once you have a reasonable amount of underlay leveled (100mm is recommended but this may vary for different lawn varieties), apply a starter fertiliser such as Sir Launcher, Turf Start and a quality soil wetter. This will encourage deeper root growth and really support your lawn in the establishment phase. 

Start laying turf around the perimeter

If you are laying your turf on a slop, start at the bottom. Place your rolls or slabs of turf around the perimeter of the area and lay between the perimeter. Stagger the joints in a brickwork fashion to avoid erosion and butt the turf closely together to avoid gaps - this is where your turf can dry out and cause a patchy lawn if not installed correctly. 

Don't throw turf offcuts away

When cutting is required use a sharp knife or shears, but don't throw these off cuts away! When you have finished laying you will probably find there are a few unusual spaces to fill and these bits are perfect for that. 

Water your new lawn as soon as possible

Water as soon as possible. If you are laying a large lawn, try and water as you go - especially on hot days. If you have access to a roller, we recommend rolling the lawn to ensure good root contact to the soil. NB for our Sir Walter DNA Certified customers rolling will not be required as our lawn is sold in slabs. 

NPK - what does it mean and why is it so important?

Knowing why NPK is important for your lawn will help you to understand how you are helping  your lawn when you fertilise. 

For the most part, as long as you use a good quality fertilser that is suited to your turf variety (where all the scientific work has been done) your lawn will thrive. 

Lawn fertilisers come in many varying types and blends and can be quite confusing as to which is the right option for your. Grass is like any other plant - it takes in nutrients and air through the soil and sunlight through the leaves for photosynthesis where the conversion to sugars and energy takes place. The job of lawn fertilisers is to keep this in balance and help provide the nutrients that your lawn is lacking. 

(N) Nitrogen - Nitrogen is largely responsible for the growth of leaves on the plant and is the most talked about nutrient when it comes to lawns and is usually the highest percentage of your NPK ratio. Lawns love Nitrogen, but it is important to strike a balance between strong leaf growth and strong roots capable of supporting it as well. This is where phosphorus comes in. 

(P) Phosphorus - Phosphorus is largely responsible for root growth and is actually quite a low percentage of the overall NPK ratio. Phosphorus moves slowly through the soil, and isn't used in great amounts by your lawn.

(K) Potassium - Potassium is a nutrient that helps the overall functions of the plant perform correctly. Potassium is an essential macro-nutrient used in the largest quantities by plants for vigor and growth. Potassium helps grass withstand drought and disease. IT also helps the plant to more effectively use Nitrogen. 

By Understanding how these nutrients effect the overall health of your lawn, you will be better equipped to identify deficiencies in your lawn and the tell tale signs of stress, which will help you know when it's a good time to fertilise. 

The original blog post can be found on the Lawn Solutions Australia website. 

Edging... there is an art to it!

Sometimes we run out of time to add the finishing touches to the lawn - but don't forget the edging. Finishing your lawn off with a nice edge can be compared to adding a frame to a painting; it makes all the difference.

If your lawn looks a bit scraggly around the edges, the overall appearance of your lawn is definitely diminished. Not everyone has a lawn edger... that's OK; a whipper snipper can do the job but its important to know how to use it to get the best results. 

The team at Lawn Solutions Australia have come up with 5 tips for getting a great finish every time. 

1. Choosing your trimmer; the main types are corded/cordless and petrol powered trimmers. Petrol trimmers will have more power and you will find these much easier for larger spaces. The may find the corded trimmers are a bit annoying as you will need to drag an extension lead behind you - but these are all you need if the space is small. The cordless trimmers are convenient in that sense, but do tend to lack the right power to get that precision edge. 

2. Speed; your trimmer will work best when at full speed. So, keeping your trimmer line away from the edge and working your way in (this is the key to maintaining speed). Avoid starting the line trimmer already in the grass - the aim is to cut the quickest and cleanest cuts; the tip of the line does all the cutting so keeping the majority of the line clear will result in the cleanest cuts. 

3. Spin Direction; depending on which way your trimmer spins, you will need to be sure you are cutting with one side and the cuttings are being ejected to the opposite side. i.e if your trimmer spins counter clockwise you will need to keep the right side closer to the edge so that the clippings are being ejected away from it. This will keep the cutting path clear and allow you to achieve a much better result.

4. Edging and tapering; edging will be important for driveways and paths where you are after a clean edge to something parallel. This is where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is vertical. This will provide a crisp cut line where you want the grass to end. Tapering is used for fencing and retaining walls where you hold the edge of the trimmer so that the string is at a slight angle. This will ensure you don't scalp a full run of grass by trimming parallel and get a nice gradual blend between the object and the grass. 

5. Regular trims; as with mowing it is important that you keep on top of the edging and no not allow it to get out of control. So, the more you do it, the more likely your edges will stay uniform and the easier they will be to tidy up, and the better you will get at it. 

The original blog post was found on the Lawn Solutions Australia Website. Superior Lawns Australia is proud to be a member of Lawn Solutions Australia. 

Lawn Solutions Featuring on Better Homes and Gardens

Did you miss the segment on Better Homes and Gardens? Don't worry, we have the clip for you here. 

The segment included;

• A brief history of turf farming (in Australia)
• How turf is cut and delivered
• Sir Walter DNA and Lawn Solutions Australia history
• AusGAP Certification and the importance of choosing quality turf
• LSA's Turfgrass research

Here at Superior Lawns Australia we are proud to be affiliated with Lawn Solutions Australia. The research and development is second to none which means we can provide our customers with the best quality turf for our unique enviroment and soil types. 

How often should I mow my lawn?

There's no excuse this weekend not to mow, with the weather that bit milder it is the perfect opportunity to get out there and tend to your lawn.

It is important to maintain a regular routine and mow your lawn when it needs here. Why you ask? Well there's a few reasons;

1. Consistent heights allow for consistent nutrients within the grass, helping your lawn look the same throughout.
2. Leaving your lawn too long can block out the sun from reaching the undergrowth and can lead to die off from below.
3. Letting your lawn get too long actually ends up causing you to mow your lawn more often! When you do finally mow, you are having to take more off the leaf which will stress your lawn much more than necessary. Once the lawn gets quite long, you don't want to be taking more than a third of the leaf off at a time without stressing the plant, so you have to mow off a third, wait a few days then mow again to get it back to the optimal height. So sticking to the one third rule is extremely important in maintaining a healthy lawn. 
4. The mower may have difficulty cutting down the tall grass even with an increased blade height, so it will be a much more difficult task. 
5. A lawn that isn't mowed regularly to the recommended height is often less healthy than a manicured lawn.
6. A lawn full of weak grass is more susceptible to disease, pests and weeds. 

By sticking to a regular mowing and lawn maintenance routine, your lawn will be healthier and be less likely to develop problems that will only cost you more time and money in the long run. 

This blog post was originally found on the Lawn Solutions Australia website.  

Do I need to use a wetting agent on my lawn?

The easy answer; yes. Wetting agents are like a detergent or surfactant that attracts water to the soils surface, helping it to soak in. 

Soil can become hydrophobic which means it repels water and can lead to serious problems in the garden and especially your lawn. For existing lawns that are hydrophobic, a wetting agent is needed. 

What causes hydrophobic soil? 

Hydrophobic soil is caused by the decomposition of organic matter, which leaves a wax like substance forming a coating on soil particles. After long periods of dry weather, soils can become dehydrated and this is when the hydrophobic surface is exposed, which stops water from penetrating. 

How can I fix a hydrophobic lawn? 

Wetting agents can assist in reducing the hydrophobic nature of soil. Wetting agents can be either liquid or granular and are sometimes mixed into lawn foods and top dressing mixes too. 

For new lawn installation, especially here in WA mixing through some organics and adding a wetting agent before laying the lawn will provide the new lawn with the best start. 

Aerating coupled with the use of a wetting agent will help get moisture and oxygen into the soil and provide your lawn with the soil it requires to thrive. 

The original blog post can be found on the Lawn Solutions Australia website. 

First Day of Autumn; how to care for your lawn

Even though we had a mild summer we can officially say today is the first day of autumn. The days are sadly getting shorter and the weather although still warm is starting to change. Autumn is the perfect time of year to give your lawn the TLC it deserves after a summer of wear and tear and time to prepare your lawn for the onset of winter to reduce the effects the winter weather brings. 

Fertilise

Autumn is the perfect time to fertilise to encourage strong root development, winter colour & overall health. Fertilising in March or April, or earlier if it’s a cooler climate; the fertiliser won’t be as effective if the ground temperature gets too cool.

The best fertiliser to use is a good slow-release NPK fertiliser such as the Sir Walter Fertiliser. It contains optimum levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) plus essential minerals and trace elements, to provide nutrients to maintain a healthy lawn.

PRO TIP: Synthetic fertilisers can change the pH levels of soil, so test the soil using a simple soil test kit. The optimum level is around 6.5. If it’s lower, then “sweeten” the soil with lime and dolomite. For a higher pH, add a gradual application of sulphate of ammonia to rebalance.

Grubs and Worms

Check for lawn grubs that are active late in summer into autumn. These can cause a lot of damage. Treat them immediately to minimise damage. If necessary, fertilise afterward to help the lawn repair itself before winter.

Soil Compaction

Soil compaction may exist from extensive rainfall, or in heavily shaded areas that tend to stay damp. When the soil becomes compacted, the roots aren’t able to breathe, and the lawn will thin out and eventually die. Use a pitch fork or strap-on aerator sandals to aerate the soil. For clay soils, apply some lime and gypsum as well.

Soil PH

Synthetic fertilisers can change the pH levels of soil, so regularly test the soil using a simple soil test kit. The optimum level is around 6.5. If it’s lower, then “sweeten” the soil with lime and dolomite. For a higher pH, add a gradual applications of sulphate ammonia to rebalance.

PRO TIP:Mow less frequently in autumn. Leave more length on the leaf to allow the lawn to be better equipped for photosynthesis and therefore weed suppression. When it comes to shaded areas, the longer the length, the better chance it will have against frostbite.

Tips to Make Your Perth Lawn Pet Friendly

Our pets appreciate a good back hard as much or possibly more then we do... for different reasons of course. 

Natural turf grass and lawn is one of the best surfaces for pets because of its hardy nature. Backyard lawns provide a place for pets to play, eat, and... do their business. A well kept lawn is usually a safe place for both pets and children alike. It will self repair from any damage or tracking and with a bit of care (aeration and some added nutrients) your lawn should serve you and your pets for life. 

As far as choosing your type of lawn, here at Superior Lawns in Perth we can provide you with a variety of appropriate lawn varieties which will suit our climatic conditions and your individual requirements. These include our Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo, Nullarbor Couch as well as Eureka Kikuyu and our luxurious Velvetene and the latest turf variety available in Perth; TifTuf. 

Once you have made your decision following these simple tips can help keep your grass and pets in top condition.

• A healthy lawn should equal healthy pets, but be mindful of potentially harmful chemicals in lawn fertisliers and treatments. 
• Avoid synthetic grass, your pets will appreciated natural grass much more! Especially in the warmer months when fake grass can get really hot for both us and our pets. 
• A little lawn care often will help keep your lawn in good condition. Pets and kids tend to track in places on your lawn and can compact the soil in some areas. Aerate every now and then with a commercial aerator or even a pitch fork and lightly top dress in spring for best results. 

For more information on the right variety for you contact us today at sales@superiorlawns.com.au or call 9303 2627. 

This blog post was originally posted on the Lawn Solutions Australia website for more information click here. 

Is Your Lawn Suffering From Dry Patches?

Perth’s harsh summer can cause your lawn to dry out almost to the stage where there is no return. Don’t despair. The team at Superior Lawns; Perth’s premium roll on lawn suppliers know how to bring back your lawn, and it won’t cost you an arm or a leg!

If you notice dry patches in your lawn, generally speaking it could be one of five things. They can occur individually, or as an interrelation between two or more of them. The reasons have been listed in order of priority.

1. Reticulation

2. Hydrophobic soils

3. Fertlising & Mowing

4. Beetles (pests) and fungus's

5. Soil Compaction

RETICULATION

The first cause is a retic system that is not giving adequate coverage. Likely reasons are blocked / broken/ misaligned sprinklers, change in pressure or sprinklers that have been replaced and don’t match the system. You check retic systems by finding out how many millimetres of water are being applied during each watering time. The pressure is measured by putting aerosol caps around your system and measuring the amount of water in each. If watering twice a week you need a minimum of 30mm on each day in normal conditions. These figures will let you know how long to run each station to get the required amount of water (stations may vary depending on pressure and sprinkler type). Different types of sprinklers put out vastly different amounts of water. Contrary to public perceptions, there is no time limit to how long each station runs for, as long as you water within your allocated watering day and time. Consideration must be given to drift from prevailing winds. Once you have audited your retic system and it is working satisfactorily you can look at the non wetting properties of your soil (hydrophobia).

HYDROPHOBIC SOILS

Hydrophobic soils repel water and this doesn’t allow for even distribution of water. The water makes runnels, following down through easier penetration areas, over wetting some areas and completely missing others. This is a natural occurrence in our dry, waxy sandy soils. So, if your retic system  is working efficiently and you are still having problems with a dry lawn, use a spade to cut out a square of lawn 100mm deep from the stressed area. You can then compare it with an area of healthy lawn. If it is drier, you probably have hydrophobic soil (at the same time you can check for beetles and grubs). Applying a good quality wetting agent such as Bailey’s Gro Sorb, Soil Soak, Ezi-Wet  or Aqua Soak before the first heat wave and reapplying as required (we recommend 4-6 weekly in summer) will improve and even out the water penetration through your lawn.

FERTILISING / MOWING

Lawn should be fertilised lightly every 6 to 8 weeks with a quality fertiliser such as Sir Walter Buffalo Fertiliser or Baileys 3.1.1 or 4.1.1. This should continue even into winter to keep your lawn green and vigorous when others have gone dormant. A tonic of iron, manganese and nitrogen sprayed on the leaf does wonders. This is available at Bunnings. It is important that your lawn is mowed at a suitable height (above 20mm and higher in shade). This helps the lawn to keep its vigor and minimises porpoising (when the runners leap over each other due to the lawn being scalped). Scalping also stresses the lawn as it doesn’t have as much surface area in the leaf to retain moisture and promote photosynthesis and it is a known fact that the length of the leaf has a direct relationship to the length of the roots (longer roots make the lawn more drought tolerant).

BEETLES (PESTS) AND FUNGUS

Pests (black beetle etc) and funguses (virtually unheard of in Sir Walter but more prevalent in other buffalo types and very occasionally in the couch varieties) can also be the cause of problems with your lawn, however these add up to less than 1% of turf related problems. You can check for beetles by soaking an area of a metre square by holding the end of your hose 150mm  below the surface for several minutes and seeing how many float to the top. If you get 50 or more you may have a problem and can treat with a suitable pesticide and for Velvetene lawns  (ONLY APPLICABLE FOR THE VELVETENE _ DO NOT USE ON ANY OTHER LAWN VARIETY) you can apply a salt solution (1kg pool salt dissolved in 5tl water). The black beetle is not a problem  if you have less than 100 to a square metre of lawn. These little creatures generally do more good than harm as they are a natural way of aerating the soil. Do not treat for black beetle unless you have an infestation of them (100/sqm). Funguses can also be treated with a suitable garden fungicide such as Fongarid or Mancozeb plus depending on the type (be aware that you do need to read the label and make sure that it is compatible with your lawn type).

 COMPACTED SOIL

Some lawns do become compacted. Like us they need air. Opening up the ground (de compacting / aerating) with a sturdy pitchfork (pushing it in and working it backwards and forwards) is one way in a small lawn or you can hire a corer from a garden hire company such as The Hire Guys. This will allow for air to circulate through the lawn and make it easier for water to penetrate.

 OTHER

Finally spills including fertiliser, chlorine, petrol or BBQ fat will damage the lawn. Other secondary problems can be excessive thatch, dog urine and builders slurry (lime and mortar washed out of concrete mixers etc during building). Also, all lawns have a flowering and seeding time. Buffalo lawns flower in late spring and can occur more often in a new or stressed lawn. Any problems can be minimised (or even eliminated) by checking the above points and you should be well on the way to having the best lawn in the street.

So if your lawn isn’t look its usual lush self give one of the above a go and see how the difference. For more information on roll on lawns available in Perth give the team a call today 9303 2627.

Simple steps to ensure your new lawn thrives

Just bought and laid your new 'superior lawn'? Want to make sure it establishes well and thrives? Here are a few simple steps to making sure you have the best lawn on the street. 

1. Follow the watering guide for new lawns.

The most crucial aspect in the first month or so of your new lawn is to ensure you are watering your lawn correctly to ensure it establishes well and remains healthy. The Water Corporation have provided exemptions for new lawns. Visit their website to apply for your watering exemption and follow their guidelines to watering days and times. 

2. Reduce foot traffic on your new lawn.

Try to keep traffic off your new lawn as much as possible until it has rooted in. After about 4 weeks (this may vary depending on the time of year) your lawn will be ready for its first mow. Before you do this, ensure you can not lift any of the slab up to be certain they have rooted into the soil. 

3. The first mow.

When you are mowing for the first time, mow on a slightly higher setting then normal then slowly bring it down to your preferred height over the next 2 to 3 mows. Continue to follow the watering guide to ensure the lawn does not dry out during this time. 

4. Fertilising

After about 6 weeks your lawn will be due for a fertilise to finish off the establishment period. Ensure you are using an NPK fertiliser and ensure you have watered the fertiliser in properly.

5. Get out there and enjoy your new Superior Lawn

Once the lawn has established well it is time to reap the rewards of your hard work and patience.  There are so many health benefits to lawn and it looks and feels great. 

For more information on how to maintain your new lawn check out our previous blog posts or give us a call.