Lawn Solutions Featuring on Better Homes and Gardens

Did you miss the segment on Better Homes and Gardens? Don't worry, we have the clip for you here. 

The segment included;

  • A brief history of turf farming (in Australia)
  • How turf is cut and delivered
  • Sir Walter DNA and Lawn Solutions Australia history
  • AusGAP Certification and the importance of choosing quality turf
  • LSA's Turfgrass research

Here at Superior Lawns Australia we are proud to be affiliated with Lawn Solutions Australia. The research and development is second to none which means we can provide our customers with the best quality turf for our unique enviroment and soil types. 

How often should I mow my lawn?

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There's no excuse this weekend not to mow, with the weather that bit milder it is the perfect opportunity to get out there and tend to your lawn.

It is important to maintain a regular routine and mow your lawn when it needs here. Why you ask? Well there's a few reasons;

  1. Consistent heights allow for consistent nutrients within the grass, helping your lawn look the same throughout.
  2. Leaving your lawn too long can block out the sun from reaching the undergrowth and can lead to die off from below.
  3. Letting your lawn get too long actually ends up causing you to mow your lawn more often! When you do finally mow, you are having to take more off the leaf which will stress your lawn much more than necessary. Once the lawn gets quite long, you don't want to be taking more than a third of the leaf off at a time without stressing the plant, so you have to mow off a third, wait a few days then mow again to get it back to the optimal height. So sticking to the one third rule is extremely important in maintaining a healthy lawn. 
  4. The mower may have difficulty cutting down the tall grass even with an increased blade height, so it will be a much more difficult task. 
  5. A lawn that isn't mowed regularly to the recommended height is often less healthy than a manicured lawn.
  6. A lawn full of weak grass is more susceptible to disease, pests and weeds. 

By sticking to a regular mowing and lawn maintenance routine, your lawn will be healthier and be less likely to develop problems that will only cost you more time and money in the long run. 

This blog post was originally found on the Lawn Solutions Australia website.  

Do I need to use a wetting agent on my lawn?

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The easy answer; yes. Wetting agents are like a detergent or surfactant that attracts water to the soils surface, helping it to soak in. 

Soil can become hydrophobic which means it repels water and can lead to serious problems in the garden and especially your lawn. For existing lawns that are hydrophobic, a wetting agent is needed. 

What causes hydrophobic soil? 

Hydrophobic soil is caused by the decomposition of organic matter, which leaves a wax like substance forming a coating on soil particles. After long periods of dry weather, soils can become dehydrated and this is when the hydrophobic surface is exposed, which stops water from penetrating. 

How can I fix a hydrophobic lawn? 

Wetting agents can assist in reducing the hydrophobic nature of soil. Wetting agents can be either liquid or granular and are sometimes mixed into lawn foods and top dressing mixes too. 

For new lawn installation, especially here in WA mixing through some organics and adding a wetting agent before laying the lawn will provide the new lawn with the best start. 

Aerating coupled with the use of a wetting agent will help get moisture and oxygen into the soil and provide your lawn with the soil it requires to thrive. 

The original blog post can be found on the Lawn Solutions Australia website. 


First Day of Autumn; how to care for your lawn

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Even though we had a mild summer we can officially say today is the first day of autumn. The days are sadly getting shorter and the weather although still warm is starting to change. Autumn is the perfect time of year to give your lawn the TLC it deserves after a summer of wear and tear and time to prepare your lawn for the onset of winter to reduce the effects the winter weather brings. 



Autumn is the perfect time to fertilise to encourage strong root development, winter colour & overall health. Fertilising in March or April, or earlier if it’s a cooler climate; the fertiliser won’t be as effective if the ground temperature gets too cool.

The best fertiliser to use is a good slow-release NPK fertiliser such as the Sir Walter Fertiliser. It contains optimum levels of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K) plus essential minerals and trace elements, to provide nutrients to maintain a healthy lawn.

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PRO TIP: Synthetic fertilisers can change the pH levels of soil, so test the soil using a simple soil test kit. The optimum level is around 6.5. If it’s lower, then “sweeten” the soil with lime and dolomite. For a higher pH, add a gradual application of sulphate of ammonia to rebalance.

Grubs and Worms

Check for lawn grubs that are active late in summer into autumn. These can cause a lot of damage. Treat them immediately to minimise damage. If necessary, fertilise afterward to help the lawn repair itself before winter.

Soil Compaction

Soil compaction may exist from extensive rainfall, or in heavily shaded areas that tend to stay damp. When the soil becomes compacted, the roots aren’t able to breathe, and the lawn will thin out and eventually die. Use a pitch fork or strap-on aerator sandals to aerate the soil. For clay soils, apply some lime and gypsum as well.

Soil PH

Synthetic fertilisers can change the pH levels of soil, so regularly test the soil using a simple soil test kit. The optimum level is around 6.5. If it’s lower, then “sweeten” the soil with lime and dolomite. For a higher pH, add a gradual applications of sulphate ammonia to rebalance.

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PRO TIP:Mow less frequently in autumn. Leave more length on the leaf to allow the lawn to be better equipped for photosynthesis and therefore weed suppression. When it comes to shaded areas, the longer the length, the better chance it will have against frostbite.

Tips to Make Your Lawn Pet Friendly

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Our pets appreciate a good back hard as much or possibly more then we do... for different reasons of course. 

Natural turf grass is one of the best surfaces for pets because of its hardy nature. Backyard lawns provide a place for pets to play, eat, and... do their business. A well kept lawn is usually a safe place for both pets and children alike. It will self repair from any damage or tracking and with a bit of care (aeration and some added nutrients) your lawn should serve you and your pets for life. 

As far as choosing your type of lawn, here at Superior Lawns we can provide you with a variety of appropriate lawn varieties which will suit your climatic conditions and individual requirements. These include our Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo, Nullarbor Couch as well as Eureka Kikuyu and our luxurious Velvetene. 

Once you have made your decision following these simple tips can help keep your grass and pets in top condition.

  • A healthy lawn should equal healthy pets, but be mindful of potentially harmful chemicals in lawn fertisliers and treatments. 
  • Avoid synthetic grass, your pets will appreciated natural grass much more! Especially in the warmer months when fake grass can get really hot for both us and our pets. 
  • A little lawn care often will help keep your lawn in good condition. Pets and kids tend to track in places on your lawn and can compact the soil in some areas. Aerate every now and then with a commercial aerator or even a pitch fork and lightly top dress in spring for best results. 

For more information on the right variety for you contact us today at or call 9303 2627. 

This blog post was originally posted on the Lawn Solutions Australia website for more information click here

Dry patches in your lawn

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We have posted this one before, but really, if you ensure you have checked off all 5 points you will have the most enviable lawn on the street.

If you notice dry patches in your lawn, generally speaking it could be one of five things. They can occur individually, or as an interrelation between two or more of them. The reasons have been listed in order of priority.

  1. Reticulation
  2. Hydrophobic soils
  3. Fertlising & Mowing
  4. Beetles (pests) and fungus's
  5. Soil Compaction


The first cause is a retic system that is not giving adequate coverage. Likely reasons are blocked / broken/ misaligned sprinklers, change in pressure or sprinklers that have been replaced and don’t match the system. You check retic systems by finding out how many millimetres of water are being applied during each watering time. The pressure is measured by putting aerosol caps around your system and measuring the amount of water in each. If watering twice a week you need a minimum of 30mm on each day in normal conditions. These figures will let you know how long to run each station to get the required amount of water (stations may vary depending on pressure and sprinkler type). Different types of sprinklers put out vastly different amounts of water. Contrary to public perceptions, there is no time limit to how long each station runs for, as long as you water within your allocated watering day and time. Consideration must be given to drift from prevailing winds. Once you have audited your retic system and it is working satisfactorily you can look at the non wetting properties of your soil (hydrophobia).

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Hydrophobic soils repel water and this doesn’t allow for even distribution of water. The water makes runnels, following down through easier penetration areas, over wetting some areas and completely missing others. This is a natural occurrence in our dry, waxy sandy soils. So, if your retic system  is working efficiently and you are still having problems with a dry lawn, use a spade to cut out a square of lawn 100mm deep from the stressed area. You can then compare it with an area of healthy lawn. If it is drier, you probably have hydrophobic soil (at the same time you can check for beetles and grubs). Applying a good quality wetting agent such as Bailey’s Gro Sorb, Soil Soak, Eezi-Wet  or Aqua Soak before the first heat wave and reapplying as required (we recommend 4-6 weekly in summer) will improve and even out the water penetration through your lawn.


Lawn should be fertilised lightly every 6 to 8 weeks with a quality fertiliser such as Sir Walter Buffalo Fertiliser or Baileys 3.1.1 or 4.1.1. This should continue even into winter to keep your lawn green and vigorous when others have gone dormant. A tonic of iron, manganese and nitrogen sprayed on the leaf does wonders. This is available at Bunnings. It is important that your lawn is mowed at a suitable height (above 20mm and higher in shade). This helps the lawn to keep its vigour and minimises porpoising (when the runners leap over each other due to the lawn being scalped). Scalping also stresses the lawn as it doesn’t have as much surface area in the leaf to retain moisture and promote photosynthesis and it is a known fact that the length of the leaf has a direct relationship to the length of the roots (longer roots make the lawn more drought tolerant).



Pests (black beetle etc) and funguses (virtually unheard of in Sir Walter but more prevalent in other buffalo types and very occasionally in the couch varieties) can also be the cause of problems with your lawn, however these add up to less than 1% of turf related problems. You can check for beetles by soaking an area of a metre square by holding the end of your hose 150mm  below the surface for several minutes and seeing how many float to the top. If you get 50 or more you may have a problem and can treat with a suitable pesticide and for Velvetene lawns  (ONLY APPLICABLE FOR THE VELVETENE _ DO NOT USE ON ANY OTHER LAWN VARIETY) you can apply a salt solution (1kg pool salt dissolved in 5tl water). The black beetle is not a problem  if you have less than 100 to a square metre of lawn. These little creatures generally do more good than harm as they are a natural way of aerating the soil. Do not treat for black beetle unless you have an infestation of them (100/sqm). Funguses can also be treated with a suitable garden fungicide such as Fongarid or Mancozeb plus depending on the type (be aware that you do need to read the label and make sure that it is compatible with your lawn type).


Some lawns do become compacted. Like us they need air. Opening up the ground (de compacting / aerating) with a sturdy pitchfork (pushing it in and working it backwards and forwards) is one way in a small lawn or you can hire a corer from a garden hire company such as The Hire Guys. This will allow for air to circulate through the lawn and make it easier for water to penetrate.


Finally spills including fertiliser, chlorine, petrol or BBQ fat will damage the lawn. Other secondary problems can be excessive thatch, dog urine and builders slurry (lime and mortar washed out of concrete mixers etc during building). Also, all lawns have a flowering and seeding time. Buffalo lawns flower in late spring and can occur more prevalently in a new or stressed lawn. Any problems can be minimised (or even eliminated) by checking the above points and you should be well on the way to having the best lawn in the street.

Simple steps to ensure your new lawn thrives


Just bought and laid your new 'superior lawn'? Want to make sure it establishes well and thrives? Here are a few simple steps to making sure you have the best lawn on the street. 

1. Follow the watering guide for new lawns.

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The most crucial aspect in the first month or so of your new lawn is to ensure you are watering your lawn correctly to ensure it establishes well and remains healthy. The Water Corporation have provided exemptions for new lawns. Visit their website to apply for your watering exemption and follow their guidelines to watering days and times. 

2. Reduce foot traffic on your new lawn.

Try to keep traffic off your new lawn as much as possible until it has rooted in. After about 4 weeks (this may vary depending on the time of year) your lawn will be ready for its first mow. Before you do this, ensure you can not lift any of the slab up to be certain they have rooted into the soil. 

3. The first mow.

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When you are mowing for the first time, mow on a slightly higher setting then normal then slowly bring it down to your preferred height over the next 2 to 3 mows. Continue to follow the watering guide to ensure the lawn does not dry out during this time. 

4. Fertilising

After about 6 weeks your lawn will be due for a fertilise to finish off the establishment period. Ensure you are using an NPK fertiliser and ensure you have watered the fertiliser in properly.

5. Get out there and enjoy your new Superior Lawn

Once the lawn has established well it is time to reap the rewards of your hard work and patience.  There are so many health benefits to lawn and it looks and feels great. 

For more information on how to maintain your new lawn check out our previous blog posts or give us a call. 



Simple Lawn Maintenance Guide


The team at Turf Australia have prepared a simple yet effective guide to turf maintenance. They have outlined seven (7) key items which are important to ensure your new and established lawn stays green providing you and your family with the best possible outdoor space. The original article can be found on their website

1. Effective Mowing

The key to a beautiful lawn is to keep it young, and the best way to do this is by mowing regularly which promotes new growth. Some top tips include;

  • Do not scalp your lawn in the hot months
  • Do not mow grass which is stressed or wet
  • Ensure your mower blades are clean and sharp
  • Mow regularly, never mowing more then 1/3 of the height per cut
  • Match the mowing height to the expected wear 

2. Watering

Your lawn may not need as much water as you think. Extra watering won't necessarily benefit your lawn. Top tips include;

  • Only water when your lawn needs it – change of  colour may indicate water needs
  • A lawn should be partly dried out between watering as it allows air to get to the root system and creates a more drought resistant lawn
  • One deep watering is far more beneficial than frequent shallow watering – and it will save you time
  • The best time to water is early in the morning when less water is lost through evaporation and wind; avoid watering in the evening or at night as the lawn will     remain wet encouraging disease
  • Your lawn may become dormant in periods of dry weather without watering, however, if the soil is kept moist, it will survive and in the rainy season come back as good as ever

3. Fertilising 

Fertilising is an important part of lawn maintenance; it promotes new leaf gives your lawn the boost it requires. Some top tips include;

  • Don’t over do it! Little and often is best.
  • Use a fertliser with a high nitrogen content
  • Match fertiliser rate to growth rate. Don’t fertilise when the grass is growing vigorously
  • Slow release fertilisers don’t need watering in, soluble fertlisers do
  • Fertlising in late summer and autumn helps maintain a better colour in winter
  • Lawns in alkaline and sandy areas may need an iron supplement

4. Renovation and Repair

From time to time, your lawn will need require some maintenance from wear and tear. Some top tips for this include;

  • Soil may become hard and hydrophobic; using a garden fork to break up and aerate the ground will assist in fixing the problem. Normally this does not need to be done more than once per year (the best time of year is spring)
  • The best method is to use the fork moving backwards.  Drive the fork in vertically and lever it through 30 degrees to crack crack the ground. Keep doing this at 15cm intervals
  • It’s easy to patch worn areas by turning new grass into the worn areas •
  • Lift a flap of soil and put grass runners half in and half out parallel to the ground
  • Keep the patched area damp until the roots have taken hold

5.Top Dressing

Top dressing is not always required but can be used to create an extra smooth surface. For this it is best to shave the lawn down, using a washed river sand and never make it more then 1cm deep. Working the the top dressing in until some leaf shows. You can also use an organic fertiliser under the top dressing if required. For more information on top dressing see our previous blog post 

6. Pest Treatments

Although rare, pest treatment may be required. Contact us for for more information on treating specific issues or determining whether or not you have a pest problem. 

7. Weeding

A well maintained lawn should not require too much weeding. Hand weeding is generally recommended as using chemicals may discolour the lawn, consult with a lawn specialist should the weed situation get out of hand and always ensure you use the correct product for your lawn type. 



Lawn Prep is the key

We have so many customers call and ask us if installing their roll on lawn is hard. The simple answer; no. As long as you have completed all the preparation work, laying the lawn doesn't have to be a painful task. 


Here are a few tips to ensure that your area is ready to have its new roll on lawn installed. 

1. Complete the rest of your garden fist.

If you are doing a complete garden transformation be sure to have completed all the other elements of the garden before tackling the lawn. These include retaining walls, garden beds and paths. This will ensure that you are off the grass and will give your new roll on lawn plenty of time to establish and thrive.

2. Clear the ground and check your soil type.

Ensure that the area you are wanting to install roll on lawn is free of any vegetation or debris. If you have used a product such as Round Up, make sure you wait at least two weeks before installing your lawn to ensure that no residue is on or in the soil. Check your soil type and and be sure to add the necessary soil improvers to give your turf the best start. For clay soils add gypsum, sandy soils add organic material, acid soils add lime and alkaline soils add sulpher.

3. Spread a quality turf underlay.   

Turf underlay is a a blend of topsoil and organic material. It is blended to give your new lawn the optimum balance of nutrients and minerals it needs for the roots to establish well. We recommend the 'new lawn' soil mix from Soils Aint Soils, but any blend of topsoil and organic material will be suitable. Spread the underlay evenly to a depth of approximately 100 - 150mm 

4. Check the Site levels and Drainage

Check if the site needs excavating or filling and also look out for drainage issues and install ‘ag pipe’ (agricultural drainage pipe) if necessary. If you find that you do need to excavate and imported soil is required, allow 100-150mm for soil.

Once you have completed the steps above you are ready to install your new Superior Lawns turf. Below is a video which recaps the above information. For more tips for your lawn check out our latest blog posts or visit the Lawn Solutions Australia website. 

Facts about real turf... did you know?


With so much information out there it can sometimes be hard to know what is fact or fiction. The team at Superior Lawns Australia want to dissolve the myth that real turf is just a water guzzling element to our homes. Although turf does complete a house and truly make it a home, it offers so many more health, social and environmental benefits.

Here is a list prepared by the Turf Growers Association of WA 

  • Oxygen generation
  • Soil erosion control
  • Dust stabilisation
  • Water filtration/purification
  • Rain water entrapment for groundwater replenishment
  • Flood control/decrease runoff
  • Air pollution control
  • Enhanced entrapment and biodegradation of synthetic organic compounds
  • Reduced Greenhouse gases
  • Restoration of disturbed soils
  • Urban heat dissipation/temperature reduction
  • Noise abatement
  • Glare reduction
  • Reduced smog pollution
  • Eliminates hiding places for ticks, snakes and other potentially noxious pests
  • Decreased allergy-related pollens
  • Fire prevention (grassed firebreaks)

A lush green lawn offers so much more then just something to walk on. Our prices start from only $6.60 per square metre and you can install the lawn yourself. Give us a call on 9303 2627 or email to find out which lawn would be the best for your needs.